The best part of the chicken
Poultry connoisseurs often name a chicken’s iliotrochantericus caudalis as the most succulent, desirable muscle on the bird. Better known as oysters, these almond-size…
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About oysters
On a recent Friday in San Francisco I consumed 18 oysters and half of a Dungeness crab for breakfast. I enjoy oysters but…
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Daddy’s nachos
In the early 1970s—even in San Antonio, where I lived—Mexican restaurants were not yet to be found on every corner or in every…
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The Cooking section
I pay fifty dollars a year for access to the New York Times cooking section. Regular subscriptions to the paper give you articles…
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Dinner with the Clichés
Roberta Cliché prided herself on her cooking. She considered herself the Queen of Westchester where food was concerned. Manuelo Cliché, Roberta’s husband, was…
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Something about snails
I read a minute ago that the French eat 50 million snails a year. Wait. Let me clarify. I read just now in…
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A very good cheeseburger
(An abridged version of this review appeared April 22, 2021, on Instagram in meatfilleddough.) In a mid-1970s Tonight Show monologue, Johnny Carson said, “McDonald’s announced…
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Mama the Cook
Mama was not a very good cook. She was an inspirational schoolteacher, the kind to whom people sent tear-wrinkled letters of gratitude, years after they left her classroom. She pulled…
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My trip to Sydney
The folks at the International Quality & Productivity Center had a hard time in 2007 finding someone to deliver the International Keynote Address…
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Mississippi eatin’
When I moved to rural Mississippi from downtown Los Angeles, I knew I was in for environmental shifts beyond just the absence of…
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